![]() Probably just taller risers and switch out the stock turn signals for something less conspicuous. I’m just gonna ride it for a bit and see what I wanna change before I do. I pressed out the baffles from my stock mufflers using a hydraulic press and a hunk of rod that's a sloppy fit and a hunk of wood under the aft end of the muffler for protection. 2-into-1s don't sound like a Harley and for the gobs of money they cost there's not a great payoff. Do not replace with drag pipes which exist to strangle engines (unless HP loss is your thing, I don't judge too harshly). ![]() The stock crossover downpipe works very well. They aren't horrible but I want a scoot I can fix anywhere with minimum tools that isn't even a slight hassle as a daily rider. (Time is money and more CNC machined parts are cheaper than higher labor cost per engine.) Early TCs have no HP advantage and have the shit cam chain tensioner which is more money to correct (if crank runout permits) with gears. TCs usually work fine but the design was made overly complex for production convenience. ![]() ![]() I inspect the starter contacts while cover is removed since they are often burnt when owners crank with a weak battery but they're dirt cheap to replace so no big deal. I add a push button solenoid end cover to every bike I own with a Denso starter. EFI is fine to replace multiple carbs which was great forfour bangers but not great on a Harley ya want to keep especially because tuning is expensive while carb tuning is dirt cheap. OTOH I've had to replace many worn out EFI pumps on cars and trucks (I worked at a used car lot) and the HD design is generic like the rest. I do a charging system test with a volt meter (takes mere minutes) so I know what I'm working with.ĬV carbs are great and I've never been stranded by carb problems on any vehicle. Then buy the factory service manual and parts catalog, change all fluids (everyone forgets fork oil but that shit goes bad too), inspect all hoses and wiring and ride it a while before modification. 95 is a good year so if it's in nice shape for the right price go for it. (Piss on slammed rides, the roads suck where I live and I don't care to have my kidneys fly out my asshole.ġ2K miles is barely past breakin for an Evo which routinely go over 100K without much fuss. If I installed longer tubes I'd definitely swap damper rods for more travel while I was in there anyway, but on such a low mileage bike I'd wait until it actually needed fork seals unless you want more ground clearance. Find the part numbers for fork tubes and damper rods for bikes ya like then compare. The Sportsterpedia front end page covers 39mm parts well and you can fill in the less common big twin narrow glide differences with minor searching to figure out what you have and what you might want. ![]() Trackerdie extended damper tubes (I just bought a pair for my FXR) add travel therefore "visible length" and every 39mm narrow glide benefits from more travel when comfort matters. Visible fork length is easy to play with. I doubt they changed the rake (if you check frame part numbers using online parts lookup that may be a clue) when fork length is so easy to change. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |